Orangasm Gene Explanation and History

The History of the Orangasm gene
In 1997 Frank Martin bred an anery male to a “normal” female.  This pairing produced 17 babies, 5 anery and 2 “rusty” looking snakes (which later became knows as orangasm).  The rusty colored snakes developed a truer orange coloring as they got older. Then, Frank bred 2 of the paler female anery babies to an albino male and produced two clutches of double het snows.  These clutches contained many more rusty (orangasm) colored babies.  In 2003 one of the original female rusty snakes was bred to a hypo het anery and produced more rusty colored snakes. This pattern continued, giving us the orangasm gene.

What are the Traits of the Orangasm gene?

  • Normal Orangasm: looks very similar to a dark pastel. The snake will have a burnt orange body and head combined with lots of black speckling.
  • Orangasm Anery: has a slight rusty or red look throughout the body. Is almost un-noticeable until compared to a non-orangasm anery. They are usually more pale and look slightly crispy.
  • Orangasm Hypo: has very bright reds and orange colors that carry throughout the body and head. This boa has little to no black speckling but instead has many vibrant reds.
  • Orangasm Sunglow: has rich red sides and no black pigment (because of the albino gene). The reds stay vibrant up the head and sometimes onto the face.
  • Orangasm Ghost: has heavy dark blacks and vibrant grays. Light and Dark grays speckling caries throughout the body and head.
  • Orangasm Moonglow: has aery white and soft yellow coloring the dark pastel purple saddles which fade to a translucent pure white as it moves toward the head.

Orangasm Gene Genetics
The orangasm gene is usually passed to about 50% of the babies when crossed with a non-orangasm. At this point it is still unclear if the orangasm gene is a polygene* or monogenic**.  Regardless, it’s an amazing gene that makes some killer looking snakes. For example, when the orangasm gene is present in the moonglow boa it makes the moonglow a more vibrant white (click here to photo of orangasm moonglow vs regular moonglow). When two orangasm boas are bread together the results are usually around 75% orangasm babies and 25% non-orangasm.

*  Polygene – A group of genes that produce a specific phenotype or trait only when expressed together
** Monogenic – Involving or controlled by a single gene

Take a look at a few of the photos below showing some of the orgasms we have produced compared to other non orangasm boas.

Orangasm Sunglow het. Anery


Orangasm Hypo Jungle


Orangasm Moonglow


Orangasm Arabesque Albino


Orangasm Hypo Jungle 100% het Albino 50% het Anery X Snow

Here are some photos of a Hypo Jungle Possible het Moonglow that was just breed to a snow. Hopefully we will get some Orangasm Jungle Moonglows or at least Orangasm Jungle Sunglows het Anery.

Should be an interesting year…

How to Breed Red Tail Boas

Hello everyone below is a quick little step by step process of how to breed red tail boa constrictors.

Snow boa breeding Orangasm Triple het Moonglow

Things you will need:

1) Male red tail boa – at least 14-18 months of age
2) Female red tail boa – at least 3 years of age (we prefer 4 years)
3) Two large tanks or cages with a controllable heat source
4) A rack system for the babies

Note: We always keep our boas in separate enclosures except for when they are breeding.

Step 1

When preparing the male and female boa for the breeding season you want to maintain the warm side of the tank temperatures at 85-90 degrees F and the cool side at 70-75 degrees F. We use under the tank heaters with thermostats to control temperatures in our breeding room.

Step 2

Increase the females food intake starting in June/July by a third or double what she is eating now. Keep in mind that boas will rarely eat during pregnancy. You don’t want to over feed her and make her fat but you do want to thicken her up a bit. She will need to be in prime shape before and during her pregnancy to ensure her health and the health of her babies.

Step 3

When October comes around its time to start cycling the boas temperatures letting nighttime temperatures on the warm side of the cage drop to 68-75 degrees F and day time temps being around 85-90 degrees F. This simulates the heating/cooling cycle they would experience in the wild.

Step 4

We usually introduce our males in late December. Keep a close eye on the two when breeding especially during the first few times they are introduced. We like to put a male in the cage with a female for 3-5 hours while keeping an eye on them and if they don’t show any interest will will take the male out and introduce him again about 5-7 days later. We will continue this process until we start to see the male courting the female (getting on top of her and trying to lock there tails). Copulation can last from a few minutes to several hours, and may occur several times over a few week period.

Step 5

Watch the female closely for her ovulation. It will look like she has swallowed a Nerf football, and it will show in the top lower third of her body. When you see this do not take the male out of the enclosure if he is still courting her. 2-3 weeks after you notice the ovulation the female will have a post ovulation shed (POS), after this shed its time to take the male out. After the POS the female will be giving birth approximately 100-120 day later.

Step 6

Its now time to bump up your heat and keep the warm side of the cage at an even 80-85 degrees F during the night and day times. It is important for the temperatures to stay consistent during this period as the female will need heat throughout the next 4 months to incubate the babies inside of her. During the first 2 months of the boas pregnancy you can offer her food (1/2 the normal size) but don’t be surprised if she refuses, this is normal. We do not recommend to offer any food to females the last 6 weeks of gestation as it may cause them to give berth prematurely.

Step 7

Watch for the pre birth waxy stool. 1-2 days before your female gives birth to her young she will drop a pre birth waxy stool. Sometimes if there are a lot of babies inside her she may accidentally let a baby or two slip out with it.

Step 8

Remove the babies and place them in separate enclosures when they are born to ensure their safety. You don’t want them to be accidentally crushed by their mothers weight. The babies will shed 14 days after there birth and will begin eating after there first shed.

Breeding one male with two female red tail boas

Hi. I have 2 female red tail boas both 7 foot and one male red tail 7.5 feet. Im new to breeding. Im trying to find out if its possible to breed the one male with both females in the same breeding season. I have all three snakes in would i rotate the
male and for how long should i have the male with each female.thanks.
- Isaac

It is definitely possible to breed one male with multiple females. One thing you want to make sure of before going into the breeding season is that your male boa is large/well fed. Males will usualy not eat/eat only a little during the breeding season and its not uncommon for a male boa to shed a few pounds while breeding.

There are a few ways to go about breeding one male with multiple females:

First if you have a large enough enclosure/tank you can put both the females in with the male, but be sure to never put two males in the same cage with one female as the males will fight. The females will not fight each other and the male will breed both of them.

If your enclosure is not large enough for all three boas then you can rotate the male between the two females enclosures. There is no magic number as far as days or weeks to leave the male in with the females, just be sure to watch for the ovulation of the female and make sure you pull the male out of the females cage after they have stopped breeding. You don’t want the male snake in the enclosure with the babies when they are born as the male will eat the young ones.

Hope that answered your question. Feel free to comment if you have any other questions.

Good luck on breeding this year


Albino to Albino Breeding

Is breeding albino to albino bad? There is no simple answer to this question, in many cases breeding an albino to another albino results in some or all of the babies being deformed, one eye, kinks, still births, etc.

Images by others

The reason people say not to breed Albino to Albino has to do with the albino gene being a week gene and initially inbred to prove out the albino genetics. The het albino gene was first successfully breed/born in 1990 by breeding a male albino to 6 female normals. In june of 1990 2 of the females produced the first ever heterozygous (het) albinos. As a result of heavy feedings, the babies were nearly six feet long within one year. Due to the size of the females a paring was made for the 1991 breeding season. In June of 1992 the first captive born albino boas were produced. The litter consisted of 22 babies, three of which were albino.

Throughout the past 20 years the albino gene has been getting stronger by out breeding to new blood lines. So thats why it is not recommended to breed an albino to an albino because there is a chance of having a deformed litter. Although there has recently been more and more stories of successfully breeding albino to albino boas.

Personally if it where up to me i would breed my albino to a het to ensure i had a health litter.

Baby Snakes Are Here!

So remember very pregnant Bertha? She dropped 6-28-11 with a grand total of 23 babies. Got lots of great new snakes. Take a look.

More pictures to follow soon!

Sire: Moonglow X Dam: Orangasm Tripple Het

Pregnant Orangasm Triple Het

Hey Guys!

Meet Bertha. She is an orangasm triple het moonglow and this year she bred with a moonglow. Now she is just about to give birth to hopefully, lots of moonglows and orangasm moonglows :) . I’ll keep you posted.

Check out the scale separation

Baby Red Tail Boas

Here is a picture of the first clutch red tail boa breeder ever produced. This clutch was produced in 2007 by crossing a Orangasm Triple Het female and a Snow male. In the picture you can see Double Het Snows, Albino Het Anery, Triple Het Moonglows, Sunglows Het Anery, Orangasm Sunglow Het Anery, Ghost Het Albino, Snows, Moonglows and the firsy ever produced Orangasm Moonglow.

What do you think?

We have some exciting clutches due this year! Stay tuned.

Sexing Your Red Tail Boa

"Popping" and "Probing"

It’s Easy! There are three easy methods for sexing red tail boas.

1. The first way is to lightly squeeze the area just below the anal hole with your index finger and thumb. Then gently slide your two fingers down the snakes tail to the end. In males you will feel two little bumps between the anal hole and the end of the tail. In females you will feel nothing. This is not the most accurate way to sex your boas but it is the quickest and easiest.

2. “Popping” – This method is not for young boas and should be done by a professional or someone with experience. When you pop your snake, if male, you will expose the inverted double penii (see image above).

3. “Probing” – Start by lubing your probe. Flip the vent open gently by starting the probe away from the tail. The probe should go just under the vent plate. Then flip it towards the tail so that the tip of the probe enters the cloaca opening but keep the probe to either side so that it can seek hemepene if there is one. Press the probe as far as you can against the posterior wall. In a male, the probe will reach around 8 or 9 subcaudal scales down the tail. In a female, it will only reach 1 or 2 subcaudal scales down the tail. Subcaudal scales are the enlarged plates on the underside of your snake’s tail. Do not use a probe that is too small as this could lead to inaccurate results. Again, this should be done by a professional or someone with experience.